Escape the concrete jungle

TGL – Cat Ba Island is the ideal get away for anyone seeking a safe port from troubled city waters, both land lubbers and pirates alike.

Cat Ba is ideal for a weeknd-end beach trip.

Cat Ba Island stakes its claim as the biggest of the several thousand rocky outcrops of Ha Long Bay. Actually, it’s big enough to boast a national park replete with its own special species, offering an ideal destination for those seeking a stroll in the great outdoors, far beyond the drab working hours in the concrete jungle.

Cat Ba is easily reached from either Ha Long City or Hai Phong City, depending on how direct you like to be about things.

As a weekender for beach bums, then from the capital, a quick jaunt out to Hai Phong and straight onto the fast ferry will have you on the Cat Ba docks in around five hours (ex Hanoi), but if you have a bit more time up your sleeve, then you may consider an overnighter on a boat in Ha Long Bay before hitting the sands to work on your tan.

Tour boats run out of Ha Long City every day, and can be booked super easy from Hanoi.

Taking a ride on a car or train for two hours from Hanoi to Hai Phong, then on a high-speed vessel for another hour, you will arrive at Cat Ba Island, the biggest island (100 sq. km) out of the 366 islands on the Lan Ha Bay. It is a tourist spot, attractive for its natural beauty and wonders endowed by nature.

There are a bunch of places to stay on the island, ranging from hotels in the main township to little known bungalows right there on the beaches of Cat Co 1 and Cat Co 2. Be quick though, as rapid development on the island is sprawling to some of its better beaches, and we all now where that leads.

From the main town, two decent (and clean) swimming beaches are on offer just over yonder hill. From the docks, facing the shore, to your right the road curves around the bay and over a hill. Follow the road to the small tollgate at the top – yes, you must pay to access these beaches, but for only a few cents, who’s complaining.

Following the road down you’re on a small beach, which has a lifeguard tower that would suggest someone mans it once in a while. A couple of small eateries sit at the back of the beach, so food and refreshments are available.

However, stopping here for the day denies you the graces of the nicer, larger second Cat Co beach. A metal catwalk is bolted into the cliff face on the far side of Cat Co 1. Follow it around to the second bay, where a quiet day can be spent dozing, working on your tan or frolicking in the small surf that rolls ashore.

Sadly, this beach has been recognised for its popularity and instead of working to preserve it as a pristine environment, a number of long fingered developers have hurried in to make well off beach bums who need another drink. Just a couple of years back, all that was there was a small group of huts that made for a quiet, romantic hideaway, but today things are a little less isolated for love struck holiday makers.

If you want a spot that is a little more secluded, you can hire a motorboat to peruse around the small islets just off the shore. These islets are dotted with calm, clean beaches, including Cat Trai Gai, Duong Gianh and Hien Hao. There is a mountain just adjacent to Cat Co Beach, which has a tunnel some good caves to explore, such as Hang Luon, Khe Sau, Trung Trang, Gia Luan and Kim Cuong.

Coming out of the caves and grottoes you should spend a little time to contemplate the sunset over Lan Ha Bay. On the golden background of the horizon and the dark blue of the sea, the heaving islets become multiform, the white sea-gulls hover and sea-eagles make circles in the sky, all beautifying the immense and fascinating space, and enchanting the visitors.

You can rent a motorbike to ride to any place you might want to see. If you’re going to be around for a few days, the best thing to do straight away is to rent a room in a hotel.

As with all tourist destinations in Vietnam, the longer the sun has been up, the more people arrive and hotel space on the island can get a bit thin. Although more hotels and hostels are being built due to the ever-increasing demand, you could be left trying to find shelter, and bearing in mind that camping out is not looked upon favourably in Vietnam, it is best to sort this errand out as quickly as possible.

Also, even though it is surrounded by ocean and there is usually a fresh breeze a blowing, carrying all your stuff around will leave you dripping with sweat and cursing your decision not to park up somewhere. A comfy hotel room is a good place to plan out your day’s activities too.

The national park offers a challenging 18km trek with the opportunity to see some rare animals, including the Cat Ba Langur, a species that currently needs all the help it can get. The park is not so close to town, so take a mini bus or a xe om.

Boats to plough the neighbouring waters can be picked up from one of two ports, the main docks in the city, and a smaller sheltered port behind the town. The town itself offers every amenity you would expect, from strange karaoke joints to nice little restaurants and curious markets.

Beach can be a reward.

For the more energetic, the calm waters of Ha Long Bay and around Cat Ba are ideal for sea kayaking. What could be more exciting than paddling through the maze of limestone karsts that rise dramatically up out of the water?

Paddle across open waters, then into caverns to explore many hidden lagoons and caves dripping with stalactites. These caves are almost untouched, as they are nigh on impossible to access other than by very small boats.

After a day of paddling, pick a deserted beach on one of the many islands in the bay and enjoy dinner before crashing out under the stars.

The bigger cruise boats that plow around Ha Long Bay can drop you off on the island for a look around, or if you’re out on the water for a few more days, Cat Ba is an ideal place to stop and grab some all important provisions.

Longer package tours from Ha Long take in a night on the island, but it is easy to get there under your own steam as well. Local buses to Hai Phong can be picked up from the Kim Ma bus station, from there a cyclo or xe om to the ferry terminal. The fast boat makes the trip in around 45 minutes. A slow boat is a more romantic trip, but three hours on a rattling old cargo ship can drive you a little spare.

There are hotels a plenty on the island, so bookings are not too much of a worry, unless you are the type of person who worries about such things.

While it’s a simple trip under your own steam, for your own ease and to buy yourself more time to hang out in the capital, booking through a travel agent in Hanoi makes things smooth as silk. If you are travelling alone, they can also hook you up with some other travellers so you don’t have to beach it alone.

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