Vietnamese dish a worldly pho-nomenon
Pho (noodle soup) is one of Ha Noi’s most iconic dishes. Few people in the capital haven’t sat down to a bowl of the steaming soup, with beef, chicken or tripe chunks floating in it – perfect to ward away the winter chills.
According to writer Giang Quan, pho sellers first appeared on the streets of Ha Noi in the early 20th century. It was originally made with beef and has since evolved to tens of different varieties.
But much to Hanoians surprise, a new version of the noodle soup has emerged. It isn’t made in Ha Noi, but in northern Nam Dinh Province with a different array of spices.
The idea came from Vu Ngoc Vuong a native of Nam Dinh Province, an area that makes the rice noodles to sell to people in Ha Noi. "Pho Nam Dinh only uses beef and beef stock," Vuong says. "It’s difficult to describe the taste of pho because each restaurant has its own particular style."
"Actually, many people across Viet Nam eat pho but it is particularly popular in Ha Noi. For that reason, it has adopted some of the city’s special characteristics – the aroma of pho is the smell of the capital," says writer Quan.
A bowl of pho is often a remedy against homesickness among Vietnamese people living in the US, the UK, France, Japan and China. Many have opened pho restaurants.
Tourists coming to Viet Nam are usually familiar with the dish, says Le Mai Khanh, representative of Viet Nam Tourism Department. "We offer a special tour called the Pho Road, where we talk about the origins of the soup and how it became a Vietnamese speciality," says Khanh. "You haven’t experienced Viet Nam if you haven’t tried pho."
Instead of braving a food stall, many choose to eat pho in the more sterile surroundings of restaurants like Pho 24, a famous restaurant chain known both at home and abroad.
Founded in HCM City, there are now restaurants in Ha Noi, Khanh Hoa, Binh Duong, Da Nang provinces and Hue City. There are also Pho 24 eateries in 10 countries including Indonesia, Singapore, Philippines, South Korea and Australia. Next year the chain plans to open more in Hong Kong, Macau and Japan, according to Ly Quy Trung, co-founder of Pho 24.
The soup is also a favourite in South Korea, says Kim Sang Ug, director of the South Korean Cultural Centre in Ha Noi. "I first ate pho seven years ago in Australia. A lot of South Korean people like it because it is rice-based." Kim says he often chooses to eat the soup in an indoor restaurant, rather than at a street stall, because he is afraid of food poisoning.
But while the soup is popular with foreigners, more could be done to boost its image further, says pho trader Ly Quy Trung. "I think we need the help of the authorities to make pho even more popular. One way would be to have pho restaurants at busy airports like Noi Bai and Tan Son Nhat. At the moment most passengers just eat instant noodles."
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